yoshi

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Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
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  • in reply to: One SL speaker not working #525
    yoshi
    Participant

    Hello:

    As an additional check, switch the backplates and see if stays with the channel or not. This will confirm a back plate problem.

    If its a backplate issue, will likely require a send back to Roger for investigation.

    Good luck….

    Ken

    in reply to: Pristine vs Dynastat #435
    yoshi
    Participant

    Fixed resistor install and new regulated bias supply installed in an original Pristine 2 backplate:

    – 4 ohm, 50 watt, non-inductive
    – new new bias supply installed on-end to fit in

    Ken

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    in reply to: Pristine vs Dynastat #432
    yoshi
    Participant

    I did a repair on an arcing problem on an original panel. I only removed enough sock to access the problem area.

    K

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    in reply to: Atma-Sphere MA1 3.2 vs Pass XA60.8 amp #420
    yoshi
    Participant

    Chungjh:

    Toe-in angle is critical in a small room. Symmetry and Equal distances from back and side walls must be achieved for a balanced sound field. A quarter in matters…

    What are your dimensions?

    As well, in near field listening, equal optimal bias on your panels is very important. I found that more toe in works, and careful bias adjustment for centering image provides a greater soundstage presentation.

    I have a similar size panel in a smaller room setting and these adjustments were important to achieve best performance. Let your ears determine guide the optimum adjustments.

    Ken

    in reply to: Pristine vs Dynastat #398
    yoshi
    Participant

    Yes, I have the original panels in storage. One is perfect, the other has a repair to the insulator and a punched diaphragm, but, it still works…

    The Toroid 1 install was a separate Initiative. I sent the backplates back to the factory for install and a some cross over updates.

    The New BF panels were a special order to fit my metal stands. I am also in Canada, so added shipping was involved. Roger was particularly helpful and accommodating throughout the the process. You should contact him directly for costs, panel dimensions and shipping. I will say that the costs are less than a heavily discounted new pair of 545s. So if the Pristine size matches your room volume (around 2400 cubic feet if I recall), than this is an option, IMO. The new panels are much heavier than my original panels.

    Ken

    in reply to: No crackling sound #373
    yoshi
    Participant

    Hello:

    The Dr. knows best…

    IMO, Probably not the bias pot.
    The bias supply may be tapped out due to a panel issue.

    If it works and sounds good, turn up the bias control and see if these is some discharge over the next several days, or with a change in higher humidity/ weather low pressure. This may show you are close to a reasonable bias is level. Then enjoy.

    Or,
    A speaker turnaround return will take time and based upon repair and inevitable updates will run you some funds. you should then consider updates all things considered.

    in reply to: Pristine II restoration #370
    yoshi
    Participant

    DD and John:

    I agree with John’s comments on tweeter value. I normally ran my brilliance control around 12:30 setting on my original Pristine 2. I measured the resistance at 3.9 ohms. The single resistor will sound much more open, so I slight round up to 4 ohms was perfect in my situation. I use all tubes for pre and power.

    Ken

    in reply to: Pristine II restoration #366
    yoshi
    Participant

    Hello DD:

    I have been fully updating my Pristine 2 this past year.

    1. Bypassed the tweeter pot with a 50 watt , 4R metal fin resistor( Mills 4R, MRC50 50 or 75 watt). Very cheap cost for a significant upgrade in HF presentation. $5.00 each…

    2. Factory installed Toroid 1: the Toroid 2 will not fit in your backlplate housing, and you may even have to put a spacer piece of wood to raise our the backplate housing up to accommodate the greater depth of the Toroid 1 transformer. I did with 3/4” thick strip.

    3. Replaced the bias supply module with the new regulated supply. This was installed my me. Roger will provide you all the parts, new bias control pot and wiring schematic. The new module will not fit in flat, so you must cut of one of the flanges ends and mount it on end for it to fit. 2 way tape, hot glue and a new small door hinge on the existing mounting screw works perfect to securely get it in. Has at least 30% more bias capability, and is voltage regulated.

    4. New bass-focused panels, mounted in the current pristine 2 frame. The pristines have 60 degree dispersion angle and you will need to provide Roger with the exact width of panels to have them specially made, due the wider panel than the current 545.
    They can be installed by you at home. The new panels take some time to break in, but are quite an upgrade, particularly the bass area. However, the original panel worked great for me for over 20 years. I had to turn up the old bias supply almost 100% to reach a full bias on the new bass focused panels. The new bass focused panels have a wider spacing of the grid wires, which Roger says enhances low frequency production. Consequently, I have found that the old bias modules a little under capacity for the bass focused panels.

    5. Clean the 3 banana plugs form the backplate to the panels and check the tension on the plugs for secure fit.

    6. I also had a panel arching repair before I purchased new bass focused panels. A repair is home doable if you have an issue there, with a degree of difficult and a lot of time. The Mylar is extremely delicate. If you have to wade into the panel for investigation, do not touch the mylar or even hard blow on it. You will pierce the Mylar with almost no tension on the membrane. I did… they will still work, but you will likely never be satisfied with a pierced panel membrane.

    7. If you do not the tip toes for these frames, get them. Big difference on this speaker.

    8. sallie home made backwave panels. firm rigid insulation panel,5’ H x 4” ( double up on 2”) thick, just placed behind the frame bas, angled parallel to the panel, centered, will improve acoustics and the front wave launch. I made a a stand with wood base, 2 dowls on the plate for rear support, and 2- 4 ‘ dowls mounted and glued vertical in the base, for panel support. works great and you can’t see them from the listening position.

    I would also suggest you figure out why the resistors blew and if there other electrical component issues in there.

    Good luck and keep us posted.

    Ken

    in reply to: Pristine vs Dynastat #237
    yoshi
    Participant

    Hello Chungjh:

    Sorry for the delay in response.

    After the break in, yes, there is a clearly more bass as expected with double the bass panel area. With the PX/BF, the whole spectrum is improved and envelopes the room( ie. right sized for this speaker in my environment) No reduction is HF either. The imaging with the BF is improved. The whole experience has motivated me to challenge the positioning of the speaker. I now have a more acute toe-in, and with the original Pristine 2 frame at a rack angle of about 3 degrees backwards, I have slowly elevated the rear to about a 1 percent rake. Combined with the toe in and the the midrange set to + 3db, the whole system has launched up big time. Very satisfying! I have a home made sallies in the rear, angled to the rake, 5’ high as well. All combined, it snaps up the front projection nicely and reduces the backwave.

    Other improvements include a fixed resistor over on the tweeter pot which resulted in a surprisingly improvement is HF smoothness and imaging.

    As for the amp, I am using VTL 225T mono blocks, heavily modified and update, with Winged C El34, 12au7 Brimar NOS and and sylvania black plate 6350. The 12au7 is not standard, and was modified to this tube along with other updates. All caps and resistors upgraded. Output is about 110 watts in a 8 ohm load( form the standard 5 ohm) and hard wired in triode mode. Lots of drive for the pristine 2 with a Toroid 1 update.

    Let us know how you make out….

    Ken

    in reply to: Pristine vs Dynastat #236
    yoshi
    Participant

    Hello Chungjh:

    Sorry for the delay in response.

    After the break in, yes, there is a clearly more bass as expected with double the bass panel area. With the PX/BF, the whole spectrum is improved and envelopes the room( ie. right sized for this speaker in my environment) No reduction is HF either. The imaging with the BF is improved. The whole experience has motivated me to challenge the positioning of the speaker. I now have a more acute toe-in, and with the original Pristine 2 frame at a rack angle of about 3 degrees backwards, I have slowly elevated the rear to about a 1 percent rake. Combined with the toe in and the the midrange set to + 3db, the whole system has launched up big time. Very satisfying! I have a home made sallies in the rear, angled to the rake, 5’ high as well. All combined, it snaps up the front projection nicely and reduces the backwave.

    Other improvements include a fixed resistor over on the tweeter pot which resulted in a surprisingly improvement is HF smoothness and imaging.

    Let us know how you make out…

    Ken

    in reply to: Best amp/preamp to go with SL? #196
    yoshi
    Participant

    It’s been the great debate for years: SS vs.tubes. Both platforms are better now than 25 years ago.

    Just passing on my experience and pleasure enjoying a tube based system. Love the natural, full sound and fabulous dimensionality. No regrets here.

    Enjoy…

    Ken

    in reply to: Pristine vs Dynastat #181
    yoshi
    Participant

    hi: I have Pristine2 for many years, and just updated them to base-focused PX panels.

    my room is somewhat larger than yours. The pristine will provide a big sound in that space. They are a wonderful speaker.

    Ken

    in reply to: Best amp/preamp to go with SL? #159
    yoshi
    Participant

    Left transistors 25 years ago, for sonic reasons!

    Yes, they are great on SL and I think they just sound more natural.

    Ken

    in reply to: Best amp/preamp to go with SL? #156
    yoshi
    Participant

    for a room that size, suggest a 200 watt tube power amp. I use VTLs with very good results; other high quality tube amps of this output should work fine. My suggestion is get a very good preamp to make your system really sing, like a Audio Research LS-28, Ref.5 or 6.

    good luck, and post your choice with comments.

    Ken

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)