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  • in reply to: New Model Sound Lab speaker #1810
    John V
    Participant

      I’m not sure what the dispersion angle is of the 3-6 cell models. I’m waiting to hear back from Roger about that.

      Take a close look at the first video in the other thread. As Roger is explaining how the membrane is attached, he appears to be using a 3C model, most likely a 745. Note that the center cell appears face on while the two adjacent cells look like they are angled at about 22.5 degrees to give the 45-degree curve.

      I guess the 4-6 cell variants would have cell angles that vary to maintain the 45-degree total.

      in reply to: New Model Sound Lab speaker #1807
      John V
      Participant

        Ah, got the impression that it was a new order.

        Actually, I knew someone had ordered a custom version some time ago, just couldn’t remember who.

        in reply to: New Model Sound Lab speaker #1805
        John V
        Participant

          Achipo,

          Congrats on the “Slim” 745!
          Is it a 3C?

          Now the hard part begins ………..waiting!

          in reply to: New Model Sound Lab speaker #1797
          John V
          Participant

            To expand on ernestov’s comments, I received the following email from Dr. West when I asked “What’s new at SoundLab?”:

            “Concerning new things going on in our company, we discovered that some people would like a more narrow version of our speakers.
            I am working on our website and a dealer news letter to announce this. As you know, our panels use a single membrane. The supporting
            frame creates flat sectors about 5 inches wide which are the length of the speaker. Each sector is angled with respect to adjacent sectors by
            about 15 degrees to provide controlled horizontal dispersion. We have given these sectors a name: cells. As you know we
            basically have three models and each of these models is available in 5 different sizes. Take as an example our Majestic 745. The
            7 suggests the approximate height and the 45 gives the horizontal dispersion. The number of cells is a standard 7. However, the same
            speaker is also available from 3 to 6 cells, so if someone wants a more narrow Majestic 745, for instance having 5 cells instead of the standard 7, the
            model name would be Majestic 745-5C. I am not putting the number of cells on our standard models, only the narrow versions which are options.
            Having this option provides a speaker that has less effect on room decor and helps to pass WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor). As you would
            expect the approach reduces bass dynamics some, but surprisingly not as much as I had expected. Anyway, this is the latest innovation and
            is something that you can mention to others as it is now available.”

            In a subsequent email, Roger wrote:

            ” I am not offering them as
            independent models. Rather, I am offering them as variations of our standard
            models, which is in fact the case. We are demonstrating them in the South-West
            Audio Fest in March to see how much interest develops. I have attached a
            copy of a photo, see below, that we are using, which shows our most narrow model, which is about 20 inches wide.

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            in reply to: Gaia 2 Isolation feet, with spikes #1711
            John V
            Participant

              Like MikeB, I too use Herbie’s Giant Gliders with my 890PXBF’s.
              As Mike also indicated, it makes moving the speakers easier, even on a carpeted floor, well at least to some degree.;))

              in reply to: One speaker just hums, no sound #1702
              John V
              Participant

                Hi Jay,

                The newer bias supplies should be a drop in replacement.
                Again, speak to Connie at the factory
                and she should be able to guide you accordingly.

                Good luck!
                John

                in reply to: One speaker just hums, no sound #1680
                John V
                Participant

                  Most likely the bias supply is defective, I would contact the factory for further advice and obtaining a replacement supply.
                  You might want to replace the bias supply in both backplates with the latest version as the supplies are now regulated and will maintain proper bias regardless of line voltage variations.

                  John

                  in reply to: Removing grill cloth #1568
                  John V
                  Participant

                    Agreed, exposed stator wires are good only for flies and mosquitoes, NOT children.

                    in reply to: Sound Lab ESL and power #1519
                    John V
                    Participant

                      Tom’s (tailspn) detailed explanation, thanks Tom, regarding possible degradation of materials constantly exposed to a high voltage electric field is exactly the reason why I turn off the bias supply of my panels when not in use.

                      Also, I unplug all of my equipment, including antenna wires, when there is the possibility of thunderstorm activity in the area. I have more than adequate HO insurance coverage but who needs the hassle of a claim submission when it’s so easy to be proactive to safeguard your equipment with such a simple step.

                      in reply to: Sound Lab ESL and power #1503
                      John V
                      Participant

                        I turn off the bias supply to my U890’s after a listening session via an inline switch. Have been doing this for years.

                        • This reply was modified 9 months, 1 week ago by John V.
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                        in reply to: Ultimate Steel Frame Dampening #1490
                        John V
                        Participant

                          Hi Keith,

                          How are you planning to attach the steel plate to the tubing?

                          The frames on my U1’s are circa 1994 and at that time the frames had a metal flange welded to each tubing. The panel was then attached to each flange via screws along the entire length of the flange. The flanges also have a 90-degree bend at the bottom end for the panel to sit on, same as your doing. From what Roger has told me they did away with the welded flange do to difficulties the welder had in positioning the flange to match the shape of the panel. Soundlab now uses a plastic flange which makes it easier to properly mount the panel.
                          Also, my frames originally had no upper cross member which allowed the frame to flex. Soundlab added a welded crossmember in later production which greatly stiffened the entire affair. Attached are a few pix. of the frame.

                          Good luck with your build, you too ernestov!

                          John

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                          in reply to: Ultimate Steel Frame Dampening #1463
                          John V
                          Participant

                            Hi Keith,
                            So, to clarify, you ordered just a set of cores/panels, no frames, and are “rolling” your own frames with an attached base to accept the backplates, if I understand this correctly?

                            Interesting DIY project! Will be fun to follow along with both your build and ernestov’s!

                            in reply to: Ultimate Steel Frame Dampening #1444
                            John V
                            Participant

                              Congrats on your soon to be received 845s!
                              Is this a new pair of U845s or are you updating the cores from an earlier/smaller Ultimate version?
                              Also, how tall will the speakers be as some 845 versions are slightly taller than 8Ft. which can be problematic installing them in an average height room?
                              As to damping the tubing, rapping the tubing with my knuckles on my U890s barely elicits any noise which quickly dies out so I didn’t feel it was worth the effort. The thought just occurred to me that instead of using sandbags on a string, as some have done, you could try using a few pool noodles inserted into the tubes. The noodles are available with a diameter of 2.75″ which should match the ID of the 3″ steel tubing. Although the pool noodles would not have the mass the sand would have, they would still help to improve the damping of the tube with little effort or expense, worth a try.

                              John

                              in reply to: Agony of choice U1 or M1 PX #1376
                              John V
                              Participant

                                Hi malthusian23,

                                Thanks for the update, and yes all of us SLOG’ers are very interested.

                                Congrats on getting your U1’s fixed.
                                I totally forgot to mention about re-tensioning the membrane. I had to do that a few times with my pre-PX panels.

                                Enjoy your “new” speakers!
                                You might, at some point, consider updating the Toroid and crossover to the latest version. This will fill in a depression in the lower midrange response and make the speaker easier to drive. This has been mentioned in a few other threads here on SLOG.

                                John

                                in reply to: Agony of choice U1 or M1 PX #1354
                                John V
                                Participant

                                  Should you decide to go ahead with the purchase, I would check to see if there is a ballast weight attached to the box that holds the backplate. Early U1 frames, such as mine, did not have this and the speaker is nose heavy and can be prone to tipping w/o the backplate installed.
                                  The first picture I posted shows the result of this imbalance when a tube trap fell over striking the frame with the backplate removed causing it fall over and hit the wooden arm of a loveseat. The core was returned to SL for repair, which was done for a reasonable cost and timeframe. Actually, the total shipping cost was much greater than the repair cost.
                                  Anyhow, I purchased 1/2′ steel plate and glued it to the rear wall of the box of both speakers to prevent a future recurrence. I would recommend doing the same if no ballast weight is present.

                                  Good luck with the purchase,
                                  John

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